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本文是首篇从设计和制作角度来研究新疆吐鲁番洋海墓地出土裤子的报告。在该墓地M21和M157两座墓葬中,均发现有羊毛裤(残),碳十四年代为公元前13~前10世纪之间,早于广为人知的斯基泰同类出土文物,而这一阶段正是中亚东部的游牧方式向外传播时期。运用服装设计的相关方式方法,我们对两条裤子的结构进行了细致分析,发现裤子由三块独立的织片制成,其中两片近长方形,分别做成左右两条裤腿,长度从腰部直至脚踝;第三片做成裤裆,连接左右裤腿。裤子的整个制作过程中没有剪裁这一环节,因为所需裤料的特定尺寸已在织机上定制完成。三块织片所用织线与最后缝制时所用缝线在颜色和质地上一致,说明织工和裁缝或为同一人或为配合默契的两个人。整条裤子裆部宽大、裤腿修身,看上去很像现代马裤的前身。结合墓中同时出土的随葬马具和兵器,我们的研究结果证实了分腿式下装的出现是与骑马盛行、战争频仍和大规模迁徙紧密相关的这一假设。裤子成为人类提高自身适应能力所需物质材料中的重要组成部分。
This is the first report from the perspective of design and production to study the excavated trousers in the tomb of Yanghai, Turpan, Xinjiang. In the cemetery M21 and M157 two tombs were found in the wool trousers (carbon residue), carbon fourteen years between the 13th to the 10th century BC, earlier than the well-known Skittles similar artifacts, and this stage It is exactly the period of nomadic outcropping in eastern Central Asia. Using the related methods of fashion design, we conducted a detailed analysis of the structure of the two trousers and found that the trousers are made of three independent pieces of fabric, two of which are nearly rectangular, and the two trousers legs are formed respectively from left to right Ankle; the third piece made of crotch, connecting the left and right leg. The entire production process of trousers is not cut this link, because the specific size of the required trousers have been customized on the loom. The three threads of fabric used are the same color and texture as the threads used for the final sewing, indicating that the weaver and the tailor are two people who are either the same person or a tacit understanding. The entire pants wide crotch, pants Slim, looks like the predecessor of modern breeches. Combined with the simultaneous release of burial hats and weapons in the tomb, our findings confirm the hypothesis that the emergence of sub-legged attire is closely linked to the prevalence of horseback riding and frequent warfare and mass migration. Pants become human beings to improve their ability to adapt to the material needed for an important part.