随着海洋资源的开发、海岸工程的发展,海岸动力学逐渐形成,到本世纪七十年代已基本上成为一门系统的专业基础学科,海洋学和流体力学的一个分支学科。海岸动力学主要研究海岸动力因素,即波浪、潮汐、海流、冰凌等运动的基本规律,及其同岸滩、海岸工程建筑物之间相互作用的规律。海岸动力学是直接为海洋资源开发、海岸工程服务的,本世纪二十年代起,荷兰、美国等开始重视海岸动力学方面的研究,取得了重大进展。近十多年来,沿海海洋资源的开发,尤其是大陆架石油的开发,已引起很多海洋国家重视,发展非常 With the development of marine resources and the development of coastal engineering, coast dynamics gradually formed. By the 1970s, it has basically become a systematic and specialized basic discipline, a branch of oceanography and fluid dynamics. Coastal dynamics mainly studies the coastal dynamic factors, that is, the basic laws of waves, tides, currents and ice movements, and the laws of their interactions with shore and coastal engineering structures. Coastal dynamics is directly for marine resources development, coastal engineering services, from the twenties of this century, the Netherlands, the United States began to pay attention to the study of coastal dynamics, made significant progress. In the past decade or so, the development of coastal marine resources, especially the development of oil on the continental shelf, has drawn much attention and development from many marine countries