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The rate of change of wave surface elevation is of much importance in ocean engineering,es-pecially for the determination of the limitation of wave breaking.This paper gives a kind of joint distribu-tion of wave periods and the rate of change of wave surface elevation by means of calculation of the two-or-der to four-order moment of the frequency spectrum based on the linear wave theory.For the first time,the distribution density function of wave periods determined by peaks is provided,and the conclusion isdrawn that the rate of change of wave surface elevation obeys the Rayleigh distribution.
The rate of change of wave surface elevation is of much importance in ocean engineering, es-pecially for the determination of the limitation of wave breaking. This paper gives a kind of joint distribu-tion of wave periods and the rate of change of wave surface elevation by means of calculation of the two-or-der to four-order moment of the frequency spectrum based on the linear wave theory. For the first time, the distribution density function of wave caused by peaks is provided, and the conclusion is drawn that the rate of change of wave surface elevation obeys the Rayleigh distribution.