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大多数人认为低振幅海浪非常近似于线性的,然而这却与实际情况相去甚远。美国博尔德市(Boulder)科罗拉多大学(University of Colorado)的阿布洛维提兹(Mark Ablowit)和鲍尔温(Douglas Baldwin)就对墨西哥努埃沃瓦尔
Most people think that low-amplitude waves are very linear, but this is far from the reality. Mark Ablowit and Douglas Baldwin of the University of Colorado in Boulder, Mexico,