服饰的用材、制作工艺和经济密切相关,其着色用料、缝制工艺、款式设计与社会、政治、经济状况紧密相连。在中国,服饰制度一直是国家礼制的重要组成部分。每一次服饰的悄然变革,都是对社会未来的一种隐喻。强弩之末的清末二十年,女性服饰的变化之大可谓前所未有,特别是民间女性服饰,其着色、用材、工艺等都有意无意地僭越旧有礼制,考虑到旧礼制束缚更加严重的原因,满蒙贵族女性服饰的变化有一定的滞后性,故本文以民间女性服饰为观察点。 Apparel materials, production technology and economy are closely related to the coloring materials, sewing technology, style design and social, political and economic conditions are closely linked. In China, the apparel system has always been an important part of the national ceremony. Every quiet change in dress is a metaphor for the future of society. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, the change of women’s costumes can be described as unprecedented. In particular, the folk costumes of women, their coloring, materials and craftsmanship have all over the old courtesy of purposely or unconsciously. Taking into account the more severe constraints of old courtesy, Mongolian aristocrats have a certain degree of lag in the changes of women’s clothing, so this article takes folk women’s clothing as the observation point.