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一、概述1.测波原理:现今海浪研究中认为海浪是无限多振幅不等、频率不等、方向不同、相位杂乱的正弦波叠加而成的。海浪表面质点作周期性振动,质点在不同时刻具有不同的垂直加速度,因此测得海浪表面某点的垂直加速度后,经二次积分即得波高。重力测波仪利用外形为1m×1m×0.1m的平板形浮子,随波浪起伏来近似反映海水质点的波动。若浮子能永远漂浮在海水表面,而不被卷入水中,则认为浮子的运动与海浪的运
I. Overview 1. The principle of wave measurement: Nowadays, in the research of wave, the waves are infinite sine waves of different amplitudes, different frequencies, different directions and phases. The surface of waves is periodically vibrated. The particles have different vertical accelerations at different moments. Therefore, after the vertical acceleration of a point on the surface of the waves is measured, the waves are highly integrated by the second integral. Gravity meter using the shape of 1m × 1m × 0.1m flat-shaped float, with the undulating waves to approximately reflect the fluctuations of seawater particles. If the float floats forever on the surface of the sea without being caught in the water, it is assumed that the movement of the float and the movement of the waves